Clockwork treasures from the Forbidden City

In November 2012 I was lucky enough to be able to visit the Forbidden City in Beijing at the end of a tour to see some of the last surviving real steam operations in China. I’m not sure how much homework I had done, but my reaction to discovering the zimingzhong in the Hall of Worshiping Ancestors was unequivocal:

The absolute highlight of my day was, rather unexpectedly, a visit to the exhibition of clocks in the Hall of Worshiping Ancestors. I was completely blown away by the utterly amazing timepieces on display – the most elaborate, inventive and beautiful clocks I have ever seen – and all utterly amazing in their own right. I had timed my visit for the day’s second display of working clocks (at 2pm) with about five clocks wound up for people to watch their extraordinary movements (towers rising, pieces twirling etc).

I had enthused endlessly on my return to the UK, but the trouble with such things is that you really need to see them for yourself to appreciate just how elaborate and utterly bonkers these are. I was therefore absolutely delighted to discover that 23 of these marvels would be going on display at the Science Museum in the exhibition Zimingzhong: Clockwork Treasures from China’s Forbidden City and that I could share my delight with friends and family.

Clockwork treasures on display at the Science Museum

The label of ‘clock’ hardly seems to do these justice, so I thought the exhibition title of ‘clockwork treasures’ particularly apt. These extraordinary creations, made in Britain and China during the 18th century for the emperors of China, have never been exhibited in the UK before.

Forget what you know about clocks on entering the exhibition and marvel at zimingzhong in the form of birds, rams, elephants, towers, temples and even a pond with three lotus flowers.

I thought it a particularly nice touch that various mechanical demonstrators had been set up around the exhibition to demonstrate how they worked, such as opening domes and waterflow mimicking features, which you could wind up and let go. Some of the zimingzhong had useful cutaways to show the mechanical marvels that lay inside, while others were demonstrated in videos provided by the Palace museum.

It is a real privilege to see these up close once again and marvel at the intricate details, crafted and assembled at extraordinary expense by highly skilled workers. It is mind-blowing to think that 1,500 of these zimingzhong exist in the care of the Palace museum and are lovingly looked after by the staff of the The Palace Museum Conservation Hospital.

I thought it was one of the most enjoyable exhibitions in a long time, so was rather surprised at how quiet it was when we visited, though to be fair it was Easter Monday. It is such a pity – these amazing creations deserve to be seen and appreciated. However, a quiet visit does allow you to get up close and marvel at the intricacy of the design.

Zimingzhong: Clockwork Treasures from China’s Forbidden City is at the Science Museum until Sunday 2 June 2024.

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