Return to the Rhodope Narrow Gauge Railway

The survival of the Rhodope Narrow Gauge Railway, the last narrow gauge railway line in Bulgaria, is something of a miracle. There were once a handful of narrow gauge railways in Bulgaria but most were converted to standard gauge or have been closed down as economically unviable. Somehow, the 125km line from Septemvri to Dobronishte has avoided that fate so far, though a branch from Pazardzhik to Varvara was closed in 2002.

I had a little taster of the line in 2016 and was eager to return and get some better photographs. An attempt to visit the line in 2020 was crushed by the pandemic, so it was terrific to finally set off on a three day visit to the line with the only operational steam engine (609.76) at the head of our train.

609.76 arrives at Tsepina

Our cosy mixed train (two passenger carriages and two freight cars) set off from Septemvri at 10:50, late enough in the day to ensure that the sun would be illuminating the track where we needed it on the first section of the route (one of the inevitable complications of a line running through rocky gorges and mountains with the sun only reaching some parts for a relatively short window).

We immediately set off in pursuit by bus and got into position to photograph its arrival at Tsepina (11:47) followed by some shots in the gorge (12:20). The shot across the gorge from the roadside was only possible thanks to one of our group, who had gone on ahead and climbed down from the steep embankment to clear the trees and vegetation that had overgrown this spot in the past decade.

A little further on the railway crosses the road that runs parallel through the gorge. It was surprising to see how much traffic had built up at the level crossing in a short space of time, with long queues of cars and lorries in both directions. I guess steam must have been relatively rare on the line in recent years as around 75% of drivers in the queue were filming on their mobiles. Always reassuring to see a steam locomotive generate plenty of smiles.

A service train hauled by 75009.1 overtakes our train at Dolene

Our next stop was Dolene (12:48) where we took on water from a truck. The loco was not in the best of shape and was slipping because of oil on the tracks from the diesels. Unfortunately, there was no sand on board the loco to help improve traction. We were now behind schedule. To address this, a crossing that was due to take place further down the line was re-arranged for Dolene (a diesel hauled service hauled by 75009.1 overtook us us just before 2pm) and a planned shot at the bridge over the Chepinska river was scrapped.

On our departure from Dolene (14:30) we continued on our way through some stunning scenery, with impressive rock faces on opposite side of the gorge, straight on through Kostandovo (15:05) and on to Velingrad (15:22). The scale of the station and yards at Velingrad shows that it must have been quite a hive of activity in its heyday. Today, it all seems rather sleepy but not without its charms.

A quick water stop at Velingrad quickly unravelled when it was revealed that the crew needed somewhat longer to clean the fire. Meanwhile the sun was steadily going down. Once we got going again (16:15) we had a new problem – we didn’t have the line for long and would soon need to give way to a service train. Once again we got the sense that steam doesn’t run here that often when we saw locals on a football pitch at Velingrad waving, as were the hotel guests in a swimming pool a little further on. From my perspective, it was nice to get beyond the point I reached in 2016. It has long felt like an unfinished mission!

A pause at Velingrad

We were soon rewarded with a view across a picturesque valley just before the sun dipped below the hills. Once we re-boarded we carried on to Tzvetino where service trains in both directions crossed (including one hauled by the newly refurbished 77102.4, looking really fresh). Once the line was clear we departed tender first (18:20) and reached Velingrad in darkness (18:52).

Although the day was not without its challenges, these were more than outweighed by another incredible set of photographic opportunities in near perfect conditions – though I’m not sure I made the best use of these. After just one day I had already laid to rest the memories of an extremely frustrating visit in 2016 and was eagerly looking forward to another two days on the line.

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The diesel depot at Septemvri

Our tour has left the main line behind and moved on to the 760mm narrow gauge Rhodope Railway which runs for 125km from Septemvri to Dobrinishte. Over three days we’ll focus on capturing the line in all its glory, with a 2-10-2 tank engine (609.76), but first up – a visit to the diesel depot at Septemvri for some of the group. In addition to the usual notices on the bus Bernd reminded us that diesels are filthy, adding that we may need sunglasses to protect us from the ugliness…

Diesel-hydraulic locomotive 76011.6 in Septemvri depot. Built at 23 August Works, Bucharest, in 1977.

The depot was rather wonderful and incredibly photogenic. There was no change in the steam locomotives stored at the depot. There are seven steam locomotives stored/dumped at Septemvri. Three can be found in front of the depot entrance (1.76, 470.60 and 506.76) whilst another four lurk in the back (10.76, 610.76, 611.76 and one more from the 600.76 series).

One new addition since my last visit was diesel railcar 82-01. This was one of four procured from Ganz Works, Budapest, in 1952. The railcar had been plinthed at Bansko for many years so it was a surprise to see it outside the depot. Inside, we saw four class 75 diesel-hydraulics (75002.6, 75004.2, 75006.7 and 75008) from the current fleet (Henschel & Son, 1965) and one class 76 diesel-hydraulic (76011.6) which has been set aside as a museum exhibit.

In addition to the locomotives in BDŽ colours there was also a class 77 locomotive in yellow and black (76005.8, now re-designated as YCRT 402), one of a batch sold to the Argentinian coal mining company Yacimientos Carboníferos Río Turbio. A Russian built diesel shunter (71002-0) was also at work outside.

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Narrow gauge steam in the Western Rhodopes

After four days in the Eastern Rhodopes we set off on a drive west this morning, with a brief stop at Haskovo to see the world’s largest statue of the Virgin Mary with Jesus.

609.76 with our train at Septemvri

Our destination was the rather remarkable 125km narrow gauge line that takes passengers on a five and a half hour journey from Septemvri to Dobrinishte, stopping at 25 stations along the way. The railway recently celebrated the 70th anniversary of the completion of the line in 1945, though the first section opened almost twenty years earlier (in 1926).

A few years ago there were rumours that the struggling Bulgarian State Railway network had earmarked the line for closure, so I have long been keen to see it for myself. I always imagined that I would end up making a visit for the diesel hauled regular services, but the line’s delightful 2-10-2 tank engine (609.76) was so much better!

Fifteen locomotives of the 600.76 class were acquired by the railway in the 1940s (the first five were manufactured by the Schwartzkopff factory in Berlin whilst the remainder were manufactured at Pierwsza Fabryka Lokomotyw w Polsce Chrzanów). Our locomotive came from the second batch and joined the rosters after a successful trial run on 21st December 1949. It was returned to operational condition in 2004 after a year of restoration.

We wouldn’t get to see the entire line in the limited time that we had here – instead, our charter would focus on the 39km stretch of line from Septemvri to Velingrad trip. It was to be a leisurely journey with a schedule that allowed five hours on the line, including a two hour lunch break at Varvara (a necessary evil to enable us to work around the regular services). More of a taster than a hardcore day of gricing!

77009.9 and 75004.2 in the shed at Septemvri Depot

Our journey up the line started at Septemvri at 12.50, after a fascinating visit to the depot. The visit gave us an opportunity to see the diesels in the shed and the steam locomotives located in varying states of disrepair around the depot buildings/. Three steam locomotives can be found in front of the depot entrance (1.76, 470.60 and 506.76) whilst another four lurk in the back (10.76, 610.76, 611.76 and one more from the 600.76 series).

The long lunch break began at Varvara just twenty minutes after our departure from Septemvri, providing a welcome opportunity to see the arrival of a regular service hauled by Romanian diesel-hydraulic locomotive 77009.9. Later in the day we would see services in the opposite direction with German diesel-hydraulic locomotives 75005.9 and 75006.7. Varvara also gave us the unexpected sight of a concrete monument to communism (in the form of a red star).

Monument at Varvara

We managed one shot in the gorge but it soon became apparent that this is a tricky line to photograph from the lineside and that it is better from down on the roadside, not that there seemed to be much in the way of safe spots to stop and start taking shots! However, when we passed one of the most beautiful photospots on the line without stopping everyone started scratching their heads. What was the logic here!?

At a stop for water at Dolene the glum faces and angry conversations told their own tale. Our tour leader had not been allowed on the footplate to call the photostops, nor were the crew taking any instructions on where to stop. Instead they were working to their own programme, delivering us at the photospots they knew regardless of whether they were appropriate at this time of day.

We arrived at Konstandovo on time (at 5.14pm) and departed after the service train had passed (5.26pm). A couple more runpasts on the outskirts of Velingrad (5.45-5.50pm) gave us some good opportunities for better shots before we arrived at our final destination around 6pm. A lovely last shot of 609.76 and the water tower here was accompanied by a welcome late burst of sun.

609.76 at Velingrad

After waiting so long to visit the line I found the day a little disappointing. Clearly the timings don’t allow for many photo stops so when the crew are as uncooperative as they have been today it makes for a pretty frustrating experience. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful line and I’d certainly recommend it (it’s a bargain at roughly £5 return at current prices). If you are considering it there is a terrific account of a trip up the line from ten years ago on Andrew Grantham’s blog at The Septemvri – Dobrinishte railway and there is an informative unofficial website about the railway at The Rhodope Narrow Gauge Railway.

We re-boarded our bus and settled in for the one hour and forty five minute drive back to Sofia. I have thoroughly enjoyed the tour despite the occasional setbacks and had good fun attempting to take half way decent photographs. I wonder where the next railway adventure will take me in the world!?

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